第31章 尼亚加拉大瀑布(2)

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    Oh，how the strife and trouble of daily life receded from my view，and lessened in the distance，during the ten memorable days we passed on that enchanted ground！What voices spoke from out the thundering water；what faces，faded from the earth，looked out upon me from its gleaming depths；what heavenly promise glistened in those angels‘tears，the drops of many hues，that showered around，and twined themselves about the gorgeous arches which the changing rainbows made！

    直到那时，我才感觉到自己距离造物者有多么近了，在那一瞬间映入眼帘的景象，永远停留在我心间，永恒的瞬间——那片宏伟的景象，向我展现的是一片平和之感，是内心的平静；是对逝者遥寄的一份淡淡的哀思；是对那永恒的安宁与幸福的无限展望，不掺杂一丝郁悒或惶恐。尼亚加拉大瀑布已被我永远铭记于心，已成为我心中美的象征，这美永远不会改变，永远不会磨灭，直到我的心停止跳动。

    我们在那梦幻般的世界里停留了十天，在那令人难以忘怀的十天里，日常的琐事和烦恼都被抛到了九霄云外，消失得无影无踪！那震耳欲聋的碧涛怒吼之声是何等动人心弦！那绝迹于尘世的澄莹碧波是何等壮观！在那变幻无常、异彩纷呈的虹霓四周，天使的泪滴是何等凄美，何等缤纷！

    I never stirred in all that time from the Canadian side，whither I had gone at first.I never crossed the river again；for I knew there were people on the other shore，and in such a place it is natural to shun strange company.To wander to and fro all day，and see the cataracts from all points of view；to stand upon the edge of the great Horse-Shoe Fall，marking the hurried water gathering strength as it approached the verge，yet seeming，too，to pause before it shot into the gulf below；to gaze from the river’s level up at the torrent as it came streaming down；to climb the neighbouring heights and watch it through the trees，and see the wreathing water in the rapids hurrying on to take its fearful plunge；to linger in the shadow of the solemn rocks three miles below；watching the river as，stirred by no visible cause，it heaved and eddied and awoke the echoes，being troubled yet，far down beneath the surface，by its giant leap；to have Niagara before me，lighted by the sun and by the moon，red in the day‘s decline，and grey as evening slowly fell upon it；to look upon it every day，and wake up in the night and hear its ceaseless voice：this was enough.

    从我到达的那天起，我就待在加拿大瀑布那一边，整整十天，我一直待在那里。我再也没有乘渡船过河，因为我知道，河的对岸也有人，而在这种地方，理应避免与陌生人交谈。我整天都徘徊于瀑布的周围，分别从不同的角度来观赏尼亚加拉大瀑布：站在马蹄铁大瀑布的边缘上，看着那奔腾的水流直逼岸头。冲劲十足，然而，在湍急的水流从崖顶投向万丈深渊之前，似乎先要停顿一下似的；从河面上看瀑布的洪流，感受着那一泻千里的宏伟景观；攀上毗邻瀑布的山岭，于树丛的缝隙间眺望，看那旋转而下的碧波如何钻进无底深渊：站在距下游三英里的岩上看着眼前的河水，只见它汹涌澎湃，从表面上看不出它涌动的原因，实际上，那正是河水深处受到瀑布水流的冲击所造成的。总之，我的视线始终不离尼亚加拉大瀑布，看着它如何在日光下熠熠生辉，如何在月华中银波粼粼；夕阳下，化为一片红，暮色中，又化为一片灰；白天用眼看．夜晚用耳听，对我而言这就足够了。

    I think in every quiet season now，still do those waters roll and leap，and roar and tumble，all day long；still are the rainbows spanning them，a hundred feet below.Still，when the sun is on them，do they shine and glow like molten gold.Still，when the day is gloomy，do they fall like snow，or seem to crumble away like the front of a great chalk cliff，or roll down the rock like dense white smoke.But always does the mighty stream appear to die as it comes down，and always from its unfathomable grave arises that tremendous ghost of spray and mist which is never laid：which has haunted this place with the same dread solemnity since Darkness brooded on the deep，and that first flood before the Deluge —Light—came rushing on Creation at the word of God.

    如今，每当我沉静下来的时候就会忍不住回想：那倒悬的澄莹碧波，仍如昔日一样怒吼奔腾，虹霓依然横亘在它下面一百英尺的高空之中。太阳将万丈光芒洒向它时，它仍会流光溢彩。天色渐暗时，它便如洁白的飞雪，纷纷扬扬。像轻屑细末从悬崖峭壁上片片剥落；像绵厚的浓烟，从山腹里喷涌而下。但当那巨瀑从天而降之时，就像将要奔赴死亡、从那深不可测的坟墓里喷发而出的巨大幽魂。它永远无法被降伏，在宇宙还是一片混沌，黑暗充斥于深渊之时。在第一场洪流奔涌而来之前，创世的上帝还未将光芒洒向大地之时，它便在这里庄严肃穆地昭显着神之灵性。（未完待续）